San Cristobal de Las Casas is an incredibly charming place, blending Spanish colonial churches and streets with an indigenous cultural feel, authentic and completely unbearing. It's the sort of place you can get lost in time as you walk the streets, with only the cars or the occasional internet cafe as proof that you haven't somehow slipped back in time. A day in San Cristobal might include...
A ride in a Collectivo. Usually an old converted VW bus, these shared taxis are crammed full of people (locals and travelers alike) as they go about their business through cobblestoned streets and up into the hills.
Walking the city, one is likey to encounter a myriad of colorful walls often sporting graffiti. Strings with colored flags hang overhead, each different according to the neighborhood.Take a break in a Plaza to get a look at one of San Cristobal's many churches as Mexican lovers take a break on a bench. Here more conventional means of Catholicism take practice, and not so much the ritualistic sacrifice of roosters (as in San Juan Chamula, apparently the rooster seen there was slain about 10 minutes after I left)
Wandering the streets, one sees graffiti but also simple requests "Do not park here, please"
In 1994 a local indigenous rebel group rose up to protest the Mexican government, the signing of NAFTA, and in general fight for indigenous and farmer rights. They occupied San Cristobal for several days and a high spirit of support remains here for the cause.
Much walking around the city will build up an appetite. My favorite? Elote. Boiled corn with Mexican mayonaise (better than in the states, although not as good as Holland, plus with lime!), salt, salsa picante, chile, and cheese. Mmmmm.....
Finish your corn on the cob snack while watching a local Bohemian perform in the town square. This fellow was quite impressive and entertained us with his juggling, gestures, and mystification of kids.
Get back on a walkabout with a visit to a local church (note different colored banners, different neighborhood)
Huff and puff you way up a hill to a church on top, complete with splendid views of the city.
Say hi to "The King of the Mountain" along the way.
Stop in the town square to watch soem gentlemen get their shoes polished.
Or just check out local kid vendors trying to peddle their goods.
And of course, what is a town square without pigeons? And what are pigeons without kids to chase them?
Eventually return home to the hostel at the end of the day for some much needed mutual lovin'. Who wants a buttscratch?
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